It's also the beginning of Lent, for those who observe it, and that means lots of fish and seafood recipes. But while I love fish tacos as much as the next person, these days call for something heartier. 

 

 

Salmon patties. These are salmon cakes made in the style of Chesapeake crab cakes: Light, crispy, a little zippy with lemon, mustard and Old Bay, served with horseradish cream. Super easy, super good with lots of different kinds of fish, and, of course, crab. 

Pacific Northwest salmon chowder. Think New England clam chowder, only with herbs, a little corn, and lots of salmon or steelhead or trout. Easy to make and satisfying on a cool evening. 

Lowcountry shrimp perloo. This is how Carolina does jambalaya. Lots of shrimp and rice, with a touch of heat from, ideally, a datil pepper, but habaneros work, too -- and yes, you can leave it out if you don't like it hot. Crawfish or small scallops are great substitutes.

Italian fish risotto, Venice style. I love, love, love this recipe, which works with most any sort of fish. In a perfect world, you'd catch fish, make a quick broth from the bones, then use those bones to cook your rice in, all in one lazy Sunday. Flakes of fish go in at the end, for a complete meal that is refined, restrained, yet full of flavor. 

Halibut puttanesca. This is a knockout dish, easy to make, with lots of pantry staples -- and any firm fish will work. Canned or fresh tomatoes, garlic, parsley, capers and olives flavor chunks of fish fried in olive oil. This dish is epic over polenta or with short pasta like fusilli. 

Mexican caldo de camaron. A rich broth of shrimp, mild red chiles, tomatoes, herbs and garlic, all garnished with the classic Mexican toppings of cilantro, avocado and green onions. Eat this with some corn tortillas for an excellent supper.